A Great Deal Experienced

Statue of King Louis

St. Louis Cathedral

Local palm reader!

Day Two was packed full of historical cathedrals and convents, the taste of New Orleans, and walking past street performers- artists, bongo-rappers, jazz bands, guitarists, drummers, knife-wielders, and palm readers- distracting me of class tour guides. The St. Louis Cathedral was the first stop; a monumental building that was originally erected in 1727 which had celebrated and suffered often. The Cathedral had been a victim of the 1794 Great Fire of New Orleans French Quarter. The current building has been standing since 1850. Entering the grandiose doors and stepping onto the marble tile flooring was an immaculate view. At initial glance I saw the innumerable rows of wooden pews and I imagine the Cathedral at full capacity, with crowds of men and women in Sunday best. The history of St. Louis Cathedral is what landed the name, as King Louis of France is highly regarded for his work on the 13th Century Crusades and he reached sainthood. The arcitechture and art in the cathedral were all related to specific beliefs that the Catholic Church has held for centuries. Three women stood above the alter to represent charity, hope, and faith. Elongated stained-glass windows were placed every few feet along the wall, telling the story of King Louis, his family, and the crusades. The Bishops are also revered for their faithfulness, as a Bishop's wooden throne is seated to the left of the altar and tombs of many bishops can be found within a vault below the Cathedral's wall. A ghost story can be heard at almost every location in NOLA, and Cathedrals are no exception. Some French Aristocrats had a strong dislike for a priest and when he died they refused him the honor of burial beneath the Cathedral. He commonly gathered with congregation members to sing next to the Cathedral, in Pirates Alley. His ghost is said to be heard singing in this alley, in order to remind people of his undying faith. An enormous shell is mounted above the mahogany podium, which represents the holy trinity, referring to the belief that God is omnipotent and can scoop up the entire ocean in a shell. After this tour we walked to Ursuline Convent, a place that was used to house nuns in the 1800s. The chapel here was possibly more beautiful in its own way, glistening in gold and silver. An enormous medallion, made from authentic gold, silver, and sapphire was posted in the center wall above the altar. It was estimated to cost five million dollars.

Ursuline Convent Chapel and its 5 million dollar medallion

Stained-glass of Henriette Delille in St. Louis Cathedral

Some NOLA natives make a living by on point mannequin challenges!

Progression is often unconventional; instead of being offended, consider why he may have chosen such a pose

The immaculate murals of St. Louis Cathedral

Our cuisine tour allowed me to continue to walk and see more of the French Quarter. Ears and eyes were fighting over where to concentrate, as I passed street musicians and performers, art, and the beauty that is French Quarter architecture. I even met some pirates on their way to something on-edge I am sure. My vegetarian palate prevented enjoyment of many of the foods, but the history and knowledge gained was well worth the trip. Two fine-dining restaurants are at the cornerstone of New Orleans high-end eating, and popularized fine-dining in the United States. We first visited Antoine's, built in 1840, it was the first restaurant in the United States and continues to be run by the same family, making it the longest family-owned business. The fame associated with this establishment was alluring, as gifts are brought by those who visit. Signatures and items were displayed by Groucho Marx, multiple US Presidents, Alex Trebek, Don Knots, Thomas Edison, and many more. The light bulb that Edison left for the establishment was larger than my head. Entire rooms were devoted to French Royalty Mardi Gras, the Rux King and Queens posted on many walls. Second was Arnaud's, established in the early 1900s and successfully staying open during prohibition, despite the fact that Arnaud was fined and thrown in jail for his continuation of alcohol sales. The upstairs of Arnaud's was a home to the 22 dresses of a Rux Queen, an Arnaud family member. The elegance and glistening jewels were fascinating, and I was blown away by the fact that each was hand-sewn. Once she had children, they were adorned expensive and luxurious ensembles as well. The design of the dress had to be specifically altered to hold the immense weight of the dresses' caboose, as each dress had regal trains to follow the queen.

I found Pirates!!!

Rux Mardi Gras Queen Outfit

Inspiration from the city confounded me at every corner. The city spoke volumes through its art and music, and I found myself dancing to the beat of unaltered expression. My free spirit ran wild with excitement, and my soul had growth as I was moved to walk to the beat of my own drum, continue in my pursuance of art and poetry, and find inner peace. Stressors were lessened by these experiences, but the day did grow long and my feet tired. Minor annoyances were distracting from the overall experience at times, as I was seemingly unaffected by copious amounts of caffeine and occasionally daydreaming about bed. The history of this city is phenomenal and incomparable, as each building has history, and every action speaks to progression and eventually inspiration for thinking beyond status quo. I was shouted at and discouraged by one street artist, "Don't take pictures of art. We are here to make money." In my defense, I only wanted to photograph the Jackson Square side view, which had some art at a distance. I hoped that this unfriendly occurrence was an exception to the rule. I desired her harsh words to be untrue, that artists sought the city for acceptance and not just fame or a living in their trade. I respect art and I have purchased from four different local artists already, with a plan in mind to buy from two more before departing the city. I did have some guilt, as the money-lacking-and-money-driven-soul of mine did understand the concern for such photograph. Some people are out there for money and will steal your ideas or copy. Many artists of New Orleans produce and sell originals, and refuse to make prints. This adds value in rarity.

Another learning experience was the profound bravery of many inhabitants of this city. They had such devotion to their religion and were often diverse in nature. The churches I toured were utilized by the Spanish, Creoles, German, Irish, and Italians. Even throughout slavery, each slave was baptized and they received Sundays off. The development of Congo Square, a gathering place and market in Jefferson Park, enabled many slaves to make enough money to buy their freedom. Free Persons of Color had many of the same rights, as they could open businesses and thrive. Henriette Delille was especially inspiring, as she was able to purchase herself out of slavery and continued her life with utter devotion to children, impoverished, and Catholicism. These acts of immeasurable compassion will lead her into the first black and first black female Saint in Catholic history. The women of New Orleans inspire me, with their ability to stand up for their dreams and then fight for rights that are deserved by all. I was inspired by the nuns that traveled from France. They taught young girls and offered services to many children who had no one else. They promoted education in women that was not previously offered.

However, I also have difficulty relating completely to some actions of the church and its members. Slavery is not congruent with any kind of religious belief and I cannot separate the ideas that such devout people would buy and sell other humans. They rectify the monumental city with funds earned from TRADING and PURCHASING other humans. By enslaving others and profitting off of the sweat of their back. And the sad part is they thought they were humane because New Orleans had specific laws banning the "poor treatment" of slaves. It was essentially illegal to beat or torture your slave, but if "it" misbehaved you could punish "it", basically rules for dogs or pet-owners in modern day. I am disgusted at times by the immense beauty of a city that allures me, due to the means used to meet such end.

Jackson Square and the crowds of art, music, and performers in front of the Saint Louis Cathedral